the Anatomy of a Fly

[mmmguitar]

The diagram is on Pages 8 and 9 of this PDF:

_files/Notices_Schematics/Graphtec_Sadd ... lletin.pdf

Here's a more generic diagram for hooking up the Acousti-Phonic:



One has the option to solder the Graphtech elements directly to the Powerchip, as well.

[Alejandro]

@mmmguitar
You're asewome. You know exactly what I'm looking for and where to find it. You're the best This helps tremendously

[TimmyP]

Hey I need to replace the dual pot on my 1998 Deluxe. It just crumbled apart after all these years. It looks like its not sourced so this is a shot in the dark...

Anyone know a US replacement? Or can you provide me with any info on the pot because I dont know anything about it. I dont need the dial (unless I do), I just need the pot, or some info. Please help if you can.

[mmmguitar]

@TimmyP, per the first page of this thread, it’s a stereo/dual gang 10k audio taper pot with 25mm long shaft, 9mm bushing diameter, 6mm shaft diameter. An eBay search for a 10k stereo pot brings up a few contenders but, as you say, none shipping from within the US.

Here’s the product page for the original Fly pot (though they don’t seem to be keeping up with the site security certification): https://tocos.com/products/potentiometers-7-mm-9-mm
Here’s a bourns pot with a 20mm shaft:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/65 ... K420K103A2

Note that if you source a pot that has a few mm shorter shaft and the knob ends up not having enough to grab on to, you can make up the difference by carefully thinning its mount on the inside of the control cavity with a forstner bit (something I’ve had to do with a few of my Flys after receiving eBay pots that ended up having shorter shafts than was specified in the listing).

[TimmyP]

Thank you! Ill fine one of these eventually. Please post if you ever come across them and remember!

*I just went and ordered that one. Again, really appreciate it. (So might be back around March when i get it )

[NailCommunication]

Hi everyone,
First time poster here. I've got a USM-era Graphtec refined fly deluxe that I am planning on replacing the faulty factory pots and switches on. From reading on possible replacement parts on this page I have a couple questions:

1. Does the Three-way magnetic pickup switch (on-on-on) [original by C&K] have to be an exact match in model number from the link: "7211T1CGE"? I have been studying the chart and am not sure if it is only the dimensions of the switches' parts or also the materials and features that matter.

This one on ebay seems to fit the bill, although there is no model#:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/252267874328?h ... SwxN5WWJGg

2. Is there a special or specific type of electrical wire to use in case one needs replacing?

Thanks for making this list and for your help

[vjmanzo]

Hi @NailCommunication—great question. The switch we have spec’d there will work, but it’s not the only option. The one you linked seems fine to me—the on-off configuration of them switch is the important thing.

Any type of good-quality wire should do the trick as long as it’s wired correctly (see wiring guides here)

[hapsong]

Greetings - I have a 2004 Fly Mojo and 2008 Fly Artist. I've read that many refined Fly owners upgrade the pots and switches. Can anyone provide links for the correct pots (3) and switches (2)? The switches on my Mojo especially have become problematic.. Thanks~

[vjmanzo]

Can anyone provide links for the correct pots (3) and switches (2)?

Hi @hapsong—did you see the links in the original post in this thread?

[hapsong]

Can anyone provide links for the correct pots (3) and switches (2)?

Hi @hapsong—did you see the links in the original post in this thread?

Got it now VJ - thanks!

[Patzag]

Anyone has master volume pots for a deluxe or classic in perfect shape? Looking for zero friction and mine are starting to feel a little gritty. Hard to do the Jeff Beck swells!
Can't find a retailer for the original tocos!

[mmmguitar]

Anyone has master volume pots for a deluxe or classic in perfect shape? Looking for zero friction and mine are starting to feel a little gritty. Hard to do the Jeff Beck swells!
Can't find a retailer for the original tocos!

Have you yet attempted cleaning and lubricating the pots? Are you at all open to trying a different brand of 10k dual gang pot with 6mm shaft diameter and (I think) minimum 19mm length (such as the 20mm Bourns that VJ linked to on the first page)?

I actually don't remember offhand what the minimum master volume pot shaft length you can get away with in a Fly (without modification) is. Isn't the TOCOS one something atypical; like 25mm and shimmed with a nut on the cavity side? I'm afraid I don't have a factory-original one on hand for reference.

[Patzag]

Have you yet attempted cleaning and lubricating the pots? Are you at all open to trying a different brand of 10k dual gang pot with 6mm shaft diameter and (I think) minimum 19mm length (such as the 20mm Bourns that VJ linked to on the first page)?

I actually don't remember offhand what the minimum master volume pot shaft length you can get away with in a Fly (without modification) is. Isn't the TOCOS one something atypical; like 25mm and shimmed with a nut on the cavity side? I'm afraid I don't have a factory-original one on hand for reference.

I have not. It's a good idea. I though these pots were sealed and therefore impervious to DeOxit even getting in there - but I'll give it a shot.
And yes, I'd rather stick with the original so I don't have to mess with the flex anymore than I already have.

[mmmguitar]

I though these pots were sealed and therefore impervious to DeOxit even getting in there.

Even "sealed", I'll be surprised if the pot was constructed without some mechanism of access for cleaning or replacing the carbon track (unfortunately, this is further counterproductive to your wanting to avoid messing with the flex assembly). If only I had the parts, I'd trade you!

In the meantime, should I happen to purchase another beater prerefined Fly, I'll crack those Tokyo Cosmos pots open and write up a servicing guide (though hopefully after first exchanging parts with you).

[Patzag]

Even "sealed", I'll be surprised if the pot was constructed without some mechanism of access for cleaning or replacing the carbon track (unfortunately, this is further counterproductive to your wanting to avoid messing with the flex assembly). If only I had the parts, I'd trade you!

In the meantime, should I happen to purchase another beater prerefined Fly, I'll crack those Tokyo Cosmos pots open and write up a servicing guide (though hopefully after first exchanging parts with you).

Thanks Marc. I'll try the deoxit method and see what gives. I'll report back!

[Mike987]

Wow what models did those RMC saddles come on?

[vjmanzo]

Wow what models did those RMC saddles come on?

According to the catalogs, they came standard on the Belewberry DF842, but they could also be ordered through the custom shop—currently, you can still order them from RMC.

[Mike987]

Wow I learned something new today! I’d imagine they’re a direct fitment for anything with a Parker bridge..or at least that’s what it appears like. I might get some just as backups since I’ve been stockpiling spare Parker parts in case something stops working one day. I dread the day when all of the extra parts floating around are gone.

[mmmguitar]

Wow I learned something new today! I’d imagine they’re a direct fitment for anything with a Parker bridge..or at least that’s what it appears like. I might get some just as backups since I’ve been stockpiling spare Parker parts in case something stops working one day. I dread the day when all of the extra parts floating around are gone.

For what it’s worth, the RMC saddles are more costly than the (also still-produced) Graphtech ones, and were used in the first Belew models due to the RMC PolyDrive preamp fulfilling the unique internal routing and buffering requirements of the guitar. I’m under the impression that USM continued to use them in the subsequent DF842 Belew model because its development preceded the OEM contract with Graphtech - but I only inferred that from speaking with Adrian (who himself would not have been in a position to know for certain).

The RMC saddles have their champions, but it’s more about taking advantage of the RMC preamp design. If you’re not planning on using three or four mag/piezo/hex/sustainer circuits in parallel, the Graphtech saddles and preamps are still there as an option.

[Patzag]

Hi fine folks.
I need to replace the master volume pot in my beloved Classic.
The "sourced" pot in the OP leads to a Bourns pot, not the original Tocos.
Does anyone know of a source for a Tocos Master pot?