Fly Deluxe Ice Blue Burst 2005 QC issues

[KenanJ]

Hey guys,

I want to have yout input on this axe with yout expert eyes.

On this deluxe from 05, the string spacing is off and I thought this was a brdge issue but looking better is seems that the pickup rout is way off, is it something possible, and how could have this passed quality control?

I attach you multiple shots and a video to check !

[KenanJ]

More here !

Video here:

[KenanJ]

serial number there

[mmmguitar]

@KenanJ, have you measured the spacing of the bridge pickup's polepieces against the neck pickup's or the bridge pickup from another Fly, just to rule that spec out as a factor in what we're seeing? FWIW, I've found Dimarzio's F-spacing (spec'd at 51.05mm) to have varied somewhat over the decades.

Unless I'm misunderstanding, the only potential issue with this Fly is strictly cosmetic, yes?

[KenanJ]

@KenanJ, have you measured the spacing of the bridge pickup's polepieces against the neck pickup's or the bridge pickup from another Fly, just to rule that spec out as a factor in what we're seeing? FWIW, I've found Dimarzio's F-spacing (spec'd at 51.05mm) to have varied somewhat over the decades.

Unless I'm misunderstanding, the only potential issue with this Fly is strictly cosmetic, yes?

Like I said, to me eyes it seems that the pickup cavity is was not centered so I suspect the bridge is iff centered too resulting in the high e being too close to the edge of the neck and from what I see (I don't have the axe in hands) it doesn't seem "fixable"...

[KenanJ]

We also see that the ball bearing of the bridge on the high e side seem all the way out of the socket to compensate for that ?

[mmmguitar]

Like I said, to me eyes it seems that the pickup cavity is was not centered so I suspect the bridge is iff centered too resulting in the high e being too close to the edge of the neck and from what I see (I don't have the axe in hands) it doesn't seem "fixable"...

Ah. I see what you mean. If I owned the guitar, I would shift the nut over slightly to see how much of a difference it made, then make a new nut based on the new measurements. Then, if the strings' new alignment over the pole pieces bugged me enough, I would reinstall the threaded inserts for the pickups to better realign them. If it was a guitar I was considering buying, I would point this out to the seller and see if this could be discounted from the sale price.

We also see that the ball bearing of the bridge on the high e side seem all the way out of the socket to compensate for that?

It seems that way. Of course, I would need to have the guitar in hand to confirm whether the wheel bearing's seating in the bridge post was affecting the performance of the trem, or if any shimming could help with it.

[KenanJ]

Like I said, to me eyes it seems that the pickup cavity is was not centered so I suspect the bridge is iff centered too resulting in the high e being too close to the edge of the neck and from what I see (I don't have the axe in hands) it doesn't seem "fixable"...

Ah. I see what you mean. If I owned the guitar, I would shift the nut over slightly to see how much of a difference it made, then make a new nut based on those measurements. Then, if the strings' new alignment over the pole pieces bugged me enough, I would reinstall the threaded inserts for the pickups to better realign them. If it was a guitar I was considering buying, I would point this out to the seller and see if this could be discounted from the sale price.

We also see that the ball bearing of the bridge on the high e side seem all the way out of the socket to compensate for that?

It seems that way. Of course, I would need to have the guitar in hand to confirm whether the wheel bearing's seating in the bridge post was affecting the performance of the trem, or if any shimming could help with it.

I think the solution to make a new nut is the smartest I don't think the pole pieces shift would be game changer compared to the ideal spot?

[KenanJ]

Like I said, to me eyes it seems that the pickup cavity is was not centered so I suspect the bridge is iff centered too resulting in the high e being too close to the edge of the neck and from what I see (I don't have the axe in hands) it doesn't seem "fixable"...

Ah. I see what you mean. If I owned the guitar, I would shift the nut over slightly to see how much of a difference it made, then make a new nut based on those measurements. Then, if the strings' new alignment over the pole pieces bugged me enough, I would reinstall the threaded inserts for the pickups to better realign them. If it was a guitar I was considering buying, I would point this out to the seller and see if this could be discounted from the sale price.

We also see that the ball bearing of the bridge on the high e side seem all the way out of the socket to compensate for that?

It seems that way. Of course, I would need to have the guitar in hand to confirm whether the wheel bearing's seating in the bridge post was affecting the performance of the trem, or if any shimming could help with it.

I think the solution to make a new nut is the smartest I don't think the pole pieces shift would be game changer compared to the ideal spot?

Can we source replacement nuts though?

[mmmguitar]

Can we source replacement nuts though?

Someone more in the know will need to confirm/correct me on this, but the nut used on Flys from approximately 1994 through 2011 appears to be a tapered Graph Tech Black Tusq XL blank (#PT-4161-00) (slotted at the factory in a jig designed by Ken to cut four nuts at a time).

Nut blank for US buyers.

Chris Andrews has Parker parts for UK/EU buyers - But, in the case of this specific guitar's requirements, I think most luthiers would prefer to shape and slot a nut from a blank; to avoid any headaches resulting from half-measures.

[KenanJ]

Can we source replacement nuts though?

Someone more in the know will need to confirm/correct me on this, but the nut used on Flys from approximately 1994 through 2011 appears to be a tapered Graph Tech Black Tusq XL blank (#PT-4161-00) which was slotted in a jig designed by Ken to cut four nuts at a time.

Nut blank for US buyers.

Chris Andrews has Parker parts for UK/EU buyers - But, in the case of this specific guitar's requirements, I think most luthiers would prefer to shape and slot a nut from a blank; to avoid any headaches resulting from half-measures.

That’s what I though for creating a custom nut starting from zero. But I think the offcentering problem would act on the bridge and offcenter it too

[mmmguitar]

I think the offcentering problem would act on the bridge and offcenter it too

I can't say for certain - The sad reality is that many mass-produced guitars have alignment issues resulting from a nut's mounting being the smallest amount out of spec, a bridge rout being the smallest amount out of spec, etc.; and they compound one another until you end up with obvious annoyances such as a high e string which slips off the neck when you're doing pull-offs, a string popping out of a trem saddle during dives, a string audibly popping or pinging within a nut slot during bends, etc. For me, the perpetual downside to buying used or B-stock guitars is that I have to assume I'm taking on a new project (and most always do). And in most cases, one or two things can be tweaked to mitigate the underlying problem, but without entirely "correcting" it - It comes down to what the player can live with.

[KenanJ]

I think the offcentering problem would act on the bridge and offcenter it too

I can't say for certain - The sad reality is that many mass-produced guitars have alignment issues resulting from a nut's mounting being the smallest amount out of spec, a bridge rout being the smallest amount out of spec, etc.; and they compound one another until you end up with obvious annoyances such as a high e string which slips off the neck when you're doing pull-offs, a string popping out of a trem saddle during dives, a string audibly popping or pinging within a nut slot during bends, etc. For me, the perpetual downside to buying used or B-stock guitars is that I have to assume I'm taking on a new project (and most always do). And in most cases, one or two things can be tweaked to mitigate the underlying problem, but without entirely "correcting" it - It comes down to what the player can live with.

I get what you mean but in that case it seem obvious that the problem is more structural than let’s say a pole piece slipping or bending …

[Patzag]

It really looks like the nut is incorrectly cut. Do you have a shot of the nut from above?

[Fox]

It's hard to tell for sure without being able to examine the guitar in person, but it seems like there's a series of misalignments with this one.

Ken Parker does comment in one of his videos about a lamentable decline in QC after he left the company, maybe that's what we're seeing here?

Does it affect playability?

[vjmanzo]

Ken Parker does comment in one of his videos about a lamentable decline in QC after he left the company, maybe that's what we're seeing here?

I think you’re right.

[KenanJ]

I didn’t get the chance to see the guitar in hands. It was proposed to me when buying parts from a guy named Chris Andrews in the UK maybe it’s the same person that @mmmguitar mentioned. But to me those QC issues are a no go. I don’t a world where it can be fixed easily. That ice blue burst color tho… you’re a lucky man @vjmanzo to have 2 of this kind

[mmmguitar]

It was proposed to me when buying parts from a guy named Chris Andrews in the UK maybe it’s the same person that @mmmguitar mentioned.

I assume so. As I recall, he repaired Parkers for the UK distributor, and pops in from time to time:

Thank you for the mention.

Currently working for PRS Guitars Europe in the UK but still doing the odd other branded repair. I still have many Parker Parts such as fret wire, step stops, stainless trem arm bushings etc.

Feel free to get in touch and hopefully i can be of some help on the forum with questions.

Thanks
Chris

Insta: @_the.captain_

But to me those QC issues are a no go.

Thanks for giving context to the photos. To reiterate some of my above conjecture: I think just about anything can be repaired - But wouldn't want anyone to own a guitar with the problems this one exhibits without knowing what kind of project they're taking on to get it playing the way it should.

[billy]

To me it looks like the neck isn’t quite straight.

This opinion based on the pups, strings and bridge position.

I know I had a scrap mojo shell that had off center pup routes that I repaired and refinished (it’s the white and blue swirl I posted a while back). That one was way off compared to any issues on this one.

I agree a new nut might improve this at least a little.