Fly Deluxe Scratched

[DrDreamwalker]

Hi Folks,

I have a Fly Deluxe and someone knocked it over and it got scratched. I'd like to work on it but don't wish to hurt it further. Anyone have experience with working with the finish on this guitar? Thank you.

Richard

[vjmanzo]

Hi @DrDreamwalker,

Sharon from Shazrock Paint (http://www.shazrockpaint.com) worked for Parker Guitars at both the original factory in Massachusetts and in the USM factory. Her work is exceptional and she can certainly do a great job as many people hear can attest. She is also very busy, so you’d have to call and be patient/persistent.

Other finish shops can do a good job for a scratch, I’m sure. There are some unique things about a Parker that a good tech should be mindful of before doing any finish work on a Fly—primarily about the use of chemical strippers on the back (and of course there fingerboard). It’s a very thin finish over a very thin layer of fiberglass and, in some areas, carbon fiber, so anything that has the potential to damage that should be avoided (which includes over-sanding).

[mmmguitar]

Bump. I have a beaten up Fly I'm wanted repainted, but would rather mail it off than do it myself (too many other guitar projects going). Last I heard from Shazrock years ago was that they were no longer repainting Flys, due to relic status. I'm just looking for a plain color refinish from a reputable person.

[vjmanzo]

Hi @mmmguitar; I spoke with Sharon this past summer about some work; she’s busy, but was definitely willing to take on the work.

I’ve never personally worked without Marty Bell, but my brother had a bass finished by him and it looks incredible. I seem to recall that he was willing to work on Flys.
http://www.martybellfinishing.com/

The main thing to consider is that the fiberglass and carbon fiber layers are about half of the thickness of your high E string , so anyone doing any sanding or paint stripping on the back needs to be aware of that.

Minor things to consider are that getting the logo and serial put back on would be very difficult. I should mention: if someone is knowledgeable about what types of tools they’d need to put the logo and serial back on, I’d be up for putting that into our project scope!

#FinishMatters

[Mr303]

To put the logo and serial numbers back on a couple thoughts occurred to me.
Originally silk screens were used.

Have graphics applied on a heat transfer tape that could then be applied with a warm iron or heat gun.
(Probably not cost effective for one or two applications.)

Laser printing could be done too but a jig to hold the guitar correctly would be required.
Ink jet printing would work as well and probably would yield better graphics than laser.

Ok, I’ll got back and sit in my covid corner now.
Cheers!

[marvin]

The serial number were INT's (dry transfers) not silk screen during my time at Parker

[marvin]

also, ALL of the first guitars were white (Black was later) using House of Kolor Brite white polyurethane and House of Kolor clear polyurethane. Most of which were shiped to Japan

[vjmanzo]

Thanks, @marvin! Great to have you here! Thanks for the info and for all the great work you did at Parker Guitars!

[Mr303]

The serial number were INT's (dry transfers) not silk screen during my time at Parker

I have always wondered how the serial numbers were done since the font was different.

I saw logo silk screens for sale when the final inventory was being sold, I incorrectly mentioned the serial number when I meant only the logo.

also, ALL of the first guitars were white (Black was later) using House of Kolor Brite white polyurethane and House of Kolor clear polyurethane. Most of which were shiped to Japan

Interesting info.
Any reason Japan was a hot spot for Parker purchases?

[vjmanzo]

Any reason Japan was a hot spot for Parker purchases?

Maybe because Korg is a Japan-based company? We’re all ears, @marvin!

[marvin]

INT's : I don't know how USM did it but we used INT's.

Yes, Korg owned 49% of Parker Guitars. (Japanese/American company. Parker used Korg's marketing System. The guitars were sent first to Japan because of Korg

[mmmguitar]

After these years of trying to hunt down a Belew Fly, I take perverse joy in knowing Korg inadvertently cost USM tens of thousands in R&D by gifting one to Adrian.

[marvin]

P.S. We used INT's for the logo as well. Remember that I left Parker in the Spring of '93 after we got into production (went back later to help with the tooling for the Bass) so things may have changed after I left

[marvin]

2nd P.S.
If I remember correctly using INT's was the idea of Bernie Cherin. Bernie was a retired gentleman who we hired just to answer the phone. Bernie was much more talented than that !! Untimately he was the bookeeper, order parts and maintained the parts inventory, and managed all of the shipping. I liked Bernie a lot !! I still have the JBL 4311B Control Monitor speakers that I bought from Bernie in my studio and they have ben thumping since '93 at least 10-12 hours a day.

[vjmanzo]

Thanks, @marvin! Great to hear these stories and about the many people who helped make Parker Guitars what they were!

[Mr303]

Yes Marvin, thanks for the info.
I did not know Korg ever had any involvement with Parker.

I wonder when (or if) silk screens were used?
I should have forked over the $25 for one set when I had a chance.

[marvin]

I don't know anything about the use of silk screens.

FWIW, Korg was bought outsometime after I left Parker

[billy]

Silk screened logos were done at usm I believe. It’s a messier process in my opinion but can work well if you have the right inks and know what you’re doing. I have a silkscreen if anyone is interested.

Dry transfers were used for serials throughout afik. I’ve used them in for logos in the past under urethane or lacquer and they work great because they are so thin. Sometimes they can react with paint solvents but it’s rare.

You just get a bunch of sequential numbers on a sheet and cut them out as needed. I think a company named chromatec still does these sheets to order.

Water slides could be another option and there are diy blank sheets available (inkjet and laser). but they often react with paint and can be hard to apply if you have never used them. They also often leave a hairline around the print where they are cutout.