Great video!

Iirc they started doing pdf in Indonesia but also did some in China.

The counterfeit ones are pretty easy to spot- not much in the way of elegant curves and surfaces and using hardware that is not Parkers.

sevenstringer37 wrote: ↑Fri Nov 15, 2024 3:48 pm Hi @billy
Do you still have any of these available? Thank you for sending the 9 spring as well back on Reverb!
-Rob

I still have a few. (I’m not the same guy selling springs though). Send me a pm with your info.

To me it looks like the neck isn’t quite straight. This opinion based on the pups, strings and bridge position. I know I had a scrap mojo shell that had off center pup routes that I repaired and refinished (it’s the white and blue swirl I posted a while back). That one was way off compared to any is...

Anyway, I remember how much I loved seeing the new DF series being launched and the posts with pictures of these custom builds. It was really exciting! So bummed that forum info was lost, and that I wasn’t part of the first tour despite living nearby at that time.

Congrats again- it is a great guitar! It was time for me to let it go since I didn’t play it that much the last few years. Sorry for any confusion about model numbers. I remember hearing during my factory visit about number of coils and pickups but it didn’t always match up with the catalogs. Possib...

Not sure but I think a #2 oval head or flat head Phillips wood screw should work. Personal preference for the oval head.

Probably 1/4” or 3/8” long is plenty. (That would be about 6-9mm long in more sensible dimensions.)

It can be done but definitely not for the inexperienced painter or even an experienced painter who’s faint of heart. I think the quality of the finish is part of what makes a fly what it is. I have painted cars and many other guitars in the past and consider myself to be fairly capable. My efforts t...

Thx for the added info Marc!

Hi Lionel There is a shielded cable for the piezo and both conductor and braid look like they are shorted together from melted insulation. Cut 5-10mm off the end so you have a blunt end. Then strip 10 mm of the outer jacket and you will see the braided shield. Carefully trim about 1/2 of that braid ...

it’s been awhile but I think this is correct. Trust but verify.

Metric bearings USM
623ZZ (Inner Dia.=3mm, Outer Dia.=10mm, Thickness=4mm)

Imperial (prerefined)
R2-ZZ 1/8x3/8x5/32


You want shielded, not sealed. Sealed have too much friction.

You might have two vintages of posts (or bearings). Usm switched to metric 10mm OD. I believe the Ken era flys had imperial diameters. Also possible is that the axle is in backwards in an attempt to compensate for some other issue. The posts you ordered are almost definitely usm era so might be wort...

If you don’t need or want the bare shell after you get your parts, let me know if you want to sell.

Leaning posts are a slightly different symptom of what is likely the same root cause- bridge post tolerances that were probably too wide to allow for finishing impact on fit. This is an example only of the orings I mentioned. https://www.theoringstore.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=36...

So I tend to prefer Duncan’s too. But, the mounts for prerefined are spaced a lot differently for dimarzios. Duncan’s only have a single row of screwposts so you’d need to add an insert or do some clever double stick taping. The inserts are not readily available so there’s that to think about. I mad...

KenanJ wrote: ↑Wed Oct 09, 2024 1:49 am

billy wrote: ↑Tue Oct 08, 2024 11:18 pm I have a set that work great. Will check the brand and model and let you know.

thanks let me know

theroklok.com universal quick change strap lock

A great gift from my friend Alberto.

I have a set that work great. Will check the brand and model and let you know.

This bridge post spacing was a known issue on the usm guitars. I don’t remember exactly what caused it (tolerance stack up or a mistake on cnc program). But there was a fix on the old forum that involved removing the posts and using an o-ring with a 1mm square cross section between the bearing and t...

Wow!

Just saw your latest set of videos, so the bushing is spinning when it shouldn’t.

I think you can carefully epoxy the bushing and pad. Let it cure for a day or so and if should be good.

Also you can try cleaning up (chasing) the knob threads with a tap, maybe a local machine shop can help you out.